Unknown Victoria

Victoria: The Unknown City is a guidebook to an eccentric town on the southern tip of Vancouver Island. This is the author's blog. Look here for Victoria lore, updates and additions to the book, and hate mail.


Friday, September 11, 2026

It's stupid to demolish Crystal Pool without a deal for a new one

Today the Times Colonist published an op-ed I wrote examining the replacement of Crystal Pool, the most expensive project in the City of Victoria’s history. I had to trim the piece to fit the TC, so here's the original, with photos and links to supporting documents.

 

The City of Victoria recently announced that it is closing Crystal Pool on September 25 — and starting demolition soon after — to keep construction of the new pool replacing it “on time and on budget.” 

Trouble is, the project schedule already seems to be shifting, and the true cost of building the new pool remains a mystery.

On March 13, 2025, Victoria’s Council ratified the decisions made by voters to spend up to $209 million on the new pool, and build it on the site of the existing one. But councillors also worried that the $120 million in the budget for construction wouldn’t be enough, and asked when they would see more precise cost estimates. 

City staff and consultants repeatedly told councillors they would see the schematic design of the new pool, along with a “Class C” cost estimate, in the spring of 2026. (See 3:30:00 and 3:50:40 of the meeting here.)

That design and estimate still haven’t appeared. What happened?

The City is using a “construction manager at risk” model for delivering the pool. Under that model, a company builds a project for a fixed price, taking the risk that it might cost more. 

Last October, the City asked for bids on the job. Five companies submitted proposals, along with their rough “Class D” estimates for the cost of building the facility with all the amenities the City had advertised, including a 50-metre main pool, a leisure pool, hot pools, a fitness studio, a gymnasium, multipurpose rooms, and underground parking for 100 cars. The City said it expected to choose the firm in December.

But no announcement came. Instead, this past March, the City issued another request for bids, this time for geotechnical consultants

The footprint of the new pool will be bigger than the existing one, so the City needed areas around the old pool drilled and analyzed in a hurry. The underground parking (blue outline in photo above) is planned to go below the front of the existing pool, for example, even though bedrock visibly sticks out nearby. 

The geotech work was scheduled to start in April. Did the results affect the project? That hasn’t been made public either.

This June, the City finally announced it had hired Etro-Durwest to manage the construction. Upon hearing the news, I filed a Freedom of Information request for the Class D estimates of the bidding companies, to see if they thought the pool would cost more than the $120 million budgeted for its construction.

City staff said they had 51 pages of relevant documents, but refused to let me see them. Release of the estimates, they said, could “harm the negotiating position” of the City. 

The City is still negotiating because the designs aren’t finished, and we don’t have a deal to build the new pool. 

“Once the design phase is complete, the work will be tendered and converted into a stipulated price contract,” the City told me. (For anyone interested, the no-price contract we have so far is here.) “Once the construction contracts have been awarded, the City will consider what further information can be released.” 

The City said it expects to have designs, and a deal, next spring. 

Unfortunately, that’s well after this October’s municipal election. 

Voters deserve to know just how much the bidding companies think it will cost to build the pool, because the Council they elect may face some hard choices. 


At that March 2025 meeting, councillors passed a motion stating the total budget for the new pool “will not exceed” $209 million. Several councillors expressed concern that any overruns would have to be covered by big property-tax increases, or deep cuts to City services. 

Staff reassured them that there’s lots of padding in the budget, including $31.8 million for escalation in the cost of construction.


But the pool budget was created in the spring of 2024. Since then, the cost of non-residential construction in Victoria has increased by 5.12%, so $6.14 million of the cushion is likely already gone. How much will contractors add to offset the risk of costs going up even more between now and when the pool finally opens?

If there are overruns and the next Council won’t increase the pool budget, they’ll have to cut amenities. This has happened elsewhere. In 2021, North Vancouver shrank the pool in its Harry Jerome Centre from 50 metres to 25 to stay on budget. Vancouver recently did the same to its planned downtown aquatic centre, enraging swim clubs and other users who are now suing that city, arguing it violated the terms of its borrowing referendum. 

Politicians often dodge speculative questions when in office, so an election campaign is a good time to ask them. If the new pool goes over budget, what will you do? Increase taxes or cut amenities? Which ones? 


(Me, I’d lose the underground parking. There’s a big lot a block away at the arena, and as Council constantly tells us, we all should be cycling and taking transit. It would be idiotic to spend $200 million and end up with a pool smaller than the original.)

Recent letters have asked that Crystal Pool stay open until the City repairs the former YMCA, to allow swimming lessons to continue. The current Council could also keep it open to use as a bargaining chip.

Call me naive, but if anything harms the City’s negotiating position, it’s demolishing a still-functioning asset without a deal for its replacement. Once the old pool is gone, we will have to pay everything the contractors demand.


Friday, September 09, 2022

Road Warriors (from Monday Magazine, August 12-18, 1999)

    THE TIRES SHRIEK as I bank into the turn at 60 miles an hour, when just ahead I see disaster: a rusted Chevy Nova and a spray-painted Camaro, two hulking monsters right out of a claims adjuster's nightmare, fighting for the inside lane.
    The Camaro nudges into the lead, and the Nova hits him in the trunk. The Camaro skids sideways, and the Nova T-bones him — BAM! — bashing right into the Camaro driver's door, sending up a cloud of sparks and oily smoke. I swerve right, and hammer the pedal to the floor. Locked in first gear, the '76 Granada guns to 4500 RPM, and I shoot past the carnage and into the straightaway.
    I'd be laughing, if I could breathe. Though there were 21 cars at the start of the main event, the wrecks keep chopping down the numbers, and the track looks clear ahead. But I'm not concentrating now. I'm too fast into the next curve.
    My right leg slams up against a padded brace in the cockpit as I try to battle the force of the turn. I can't hold it. I wrench the wheels harder to the left, and that it puts me into a skid. I step on the gas to try to swing the tail around and I accelerate — towards the grandstand, and the leading edge of a concrete wall. And that wall is coming up fast . . . .


    EVERY SECOND SATURDAY out at Western Speedway is the most bizarre open-air spectacle you'll ever see in these parts: thousands of otherwise-demure Victorians cheering as their neighbours drive heaps of Detroit steel around and around at high speed, and try to run each other off the road.
    This is "hit-to-pass" racing, the lunatic offspring of stock car racing and demolition derbies, combining the best (or worst) elements of both. Stock cars avoid collisions; in hit-to-pass, you're required to smack the car in front of you. And unlike demolition derbies, where vehicles chug around an enclosed ring (often in reverse, to avoid bashing their radiators), hit-to-pass cars run flat out at highway speeds, guaranteeing rollovers, engine fires, spinouts, and plenty of crumpled metal. A hit-to-pass night is a Mad Max movie come to life, or a gladiator scene from the final days of the Roman Empire; at one point in the festivities the promoters even toss loaves of Bunsmaster bread to the hungry crowd. Kids love it.
    Harder to figure out is why the drivers subject themselves to such punishment. It's not the money: drivers take home a $17 plastic trophy and around $300 for winning a main event race, and only about $1,500 for winning the entire season, which winds up in October. No, the appeal is more primal than that.
    "It's the adrenalin rush," says Gerry LaBelle, president of the Lower Island Track Racing Association (LITRA), the club that runs hit-to-pass nights. "If you're not afraid before a race, if you're not nervous, there's something wrong with you. You don't know whether you're going to get hit once, or whether you're going to get hit 30 times."
    Learning how to drive intelligently, how to finesse a vehicle — even a battered old Impala — around a turn is part of the pleasure. So is the thrill of victory. LaBelle owns the Canadian College of Business and Language on Bastion Square, and in his office he has some of the 18 trophies he's won in the nine years he's been racing. Though he and his wife have four young daughters, he can't give it up. "For me, it's an addiction," he says. "After I've raced, I feel on top of the world."
    That kind of fix is easier to get than you think. Along with demo cars, demo trucks, and "mini figure-8"-slamming compacts, LITRA also has a low-contact "claimer" division, which offers a cheap way of getting into the sport. Setting up a real stock car can cost up to $10,000, but if you join LITRA and put $269 in an envelope, when it gets drawn from a hat at the end of a hit-to-pass night, you can pick any one of the claimer cars, tow it home, and drive it in the next race.
    Seeing's how I'm a bicycle-riding cheapskate who barely knows how to change his own oil, I'm hesitant to buy a claimer, and I don't think my landlady wants her lawn looking like a Tijuana scrapyard. So LaBelle puts me in touch with John Cross, a veteran claimer driver, and wise guru of automotive repair.
    There are six cars in various states of dissection on the driveway of Cross's house, just up from Portage Inlet. Coiled hoses, stacks of tires, boxes of tools, whole shelving units full of parts. "You get started with this, and soon you need everything," explains Cross, a big soft-spoken man with glasses and a monkish haircut. He drives a truck for Victoria Shipyards, but he conducts himself with the careful demeanour of a surgeon.
    The deal is that if I pay for the towing and the gas, Cross will graciously let me race his '76 Granada. He bought it out of the paper for only $150, but he's done plenty of work on it. He's stripped the car to its essentials, gutting the interior, removing the upholstery and passenger seats and the dash, reducing the starter to a steel box and a switch. He's splayed the right front wheel so that it runs upright when the car's weight's on it in a turn. He's welded the doors shut, put in required safety features like a five-point seat belt and a roll cage made of steel pipe, and bolted a strip of channel iron to the driver's door. As Cross tells me, he feels safer in this Granada than he does in his family car.
    That still doesn't explain why he races, though. And then I find out there's a side to him that's not so careful.
    "On the street we're limited to 50 or 80 kilometres an hour, and that's not really enough. The need for speed is real," he says, mischeviously. "The track is the one place where I can go out and misbehave."

    THE DRIVERS REMOVE their ball caps during the national anthem, and while I look for my girlfriend in the grandstand, a young guy standing beside me yawns, and squints into the setting sun. "I just woke up," he explains. He was sleeping on the grass over by his car. He and his wife just had a baby, and he's trying to get his 40 winks in whenever he can.
    Unlike spoiled zillionaire hockey players, Western Speedway drivers are ordinary guys (and a few gals) who live up the street. Many of them are mechanics or welders or work in body shops or wrecking yards. Another young driver I speak with, Rob Bouchard, is studying to be a Baptist minister.
    When I ask if it is unseemly for a man of the cloth to total thy neighbour's Buick, Bouchard gives me an answer that's pure Ecclesiastes. "There is no contradiction when it comes to God," he says. "There's a time when you have to be aggressive, and there's a time when you have to lay back."
    Bouchard says that after he's finished school, he'd like to start a church among the racers. Certainly, religion or not, there's a fellow feeling, a camaraderie in the pits already. Everyone's a devoted racing fan and loves tinkering with cars; they swap tools and mechanic's advice and gossip about who didn't come out to race this week and why.
    "Really, we're like family," says Adrien Thomas, LITRA's membership coordinator. That doesn't mean they always get along, though. At their pre-race meeting, the drivers are warned that they'll be docked points if they engage in unsportsmanlike conduct, like the fight that happened in the infield the previous Saturday.
    "And remember, claimers," Thomas instructs, "no intentional hitting."
The drivers look back and forth at each other and smirk, like schoolboys with plans of their own.
We head out for our timing laps. The idea on an oval like Western is to swing wide on the straight stretches, right up next to the wall, and then dive tight into the turns, making your course as circular as possible. Easier said than done. Even though I've done practice laps in the Granada earlier in the day, I overpower one turn and fishtail the back end, losing valuable time.
    I come in at 23 seconds flat. On a 4/10ths of a mile track, that puts my average speed at about 63 miles per hour. Good demo drivers can do it in 20 seconds (72 MPH average), but sometimes they'll "balloon foot" the timing lap and drive intentionally slow, to put them at the front of the starting grid in the actual races. Though I didn't intend it, that's where I'll be. On hit-to-pass nights the fastest cars start last, and have to fight their way through the pack. There's more wreckage that way.
    Back in the pits, Cross advises me to ease up heading into the turns; when you're driving in first gear, the engine is its own brake.
    Then he takes a paint marker, he writes my name above the driver's door. "That's so when the ambulance drivers come and you don't know who you are, they'll be able to tell you," Cross says.
    I look up and see a large bird, riding the thermal that's lifting off the hot asphalt. A turkey vulture. And it's circling overhead.

    LEGEND HAS IT that stock car racing grew out of Dixie moonshining, out of races that good ol' boys in hot rods had with the law. According to Tom Wolfe, in his book The Kandy-Kolored Tangerine-Flake Streamline Baby, demolition derbies got started on Long Island in 1958, but some claim they began earlier in Ohio, after a promoter saw the huge crowd that gathered at an intersection when two enraged drivers started ramming into each other.
    No one knows exactly who first put the two together and came up with hit-to-pass demo racing. Len Pease, the president of the U.S.-based National Demolition Derby Association, says in some places in the early 1970s there was an event called "roundy round", in which drivers were required to smack another car on the home stretch of each lap. He doesn't know who invented the rule that you could hit anywhere on the track.
    Some say hit-to-pass first appeared at Western Speedway when visiting drivers from Washington State came to town and showed it off in the mid-'70s. Others claim the concept was first developed right here in Victoria. Jamie Peakman, who now drives "total destruction" derbies across Canada and the U.S., says the hit-to-pass rules really evolved back when he was driving at Western around 1977. In classic total destruction, the event ends when only one vehicle is left moving. But a lot of Victoria drivers couldn't afford to lose a car every night out, says Peakman, so to save money and give their cars a fighting chance, they ran hit-to-pass laps instead.
    Whatever its origins, demolition racing remains unique to the Pacific Northwest, found only on tracks in B.C., Washington and Oregon. The publisher of the U.S.-based National Speedway Directory told me that hit-to-pass isn't anywhere else on the continent--the only place there's something like it is in Britain, where the class is called "bangers", and drivers race outrageous machines like old hearses and mail delivery vans. When I called the secretary of the Canadian Automobile Sports Club in Downsview, Ontario, to ask if they had anything similar to hit-to-pass back east, he was horrified. "We don't have any such thing here," he sniffed. "At least, not legally."
    One thing everyone agrees on, though: on the track, Victoria's drivers are meaner than junkyard dogs. "They hit very hard compared to anywhere else," says Butch Behn, who was the promoter at Western Speedway from 1983 to 1995 and now runs a track in Tenino, Washington. "That is not up for discussion, it's the truth. These guys down here, they can hit too, but not many guys want to go home without a car."
    Why would drivers from sleepy Victoria be so aggressive? Oddly enough, Behn attributes it to state-run health care. "You gotta remember, in Canada everybody's got B.C. Medical, so you just run down, the doc fixes you up, and away you go. Down here it's altogether different. You gotta have the big insurance because most people here don't have any insurance at all."
    Keith Cahill, who's won several hit-to-pass championships, says Victoria drivers hit harder mainly because everyone keeps dropping bigger and bigger engines into their cars. Twenty years ago the rule was "run what you brung"; now hardcore demo drivers will invest up to $5,000 in an engine, just to be faster than anyone else.
    Cahill certainly knows the impact those engines can have. He entered his first demo race the day after he got his driver's licence in 1979, and after that, entered any event where cars got wrecked —doing crash-dive stunts, and running total destructions twice daily for 17 days straight at Vancouver's Pacific National Exhibition. ("You just didn't have time to heal," says Cahill.) Now he's Western Speedway's starter and flagman, and though he holds a job at a pulp mill, he also has to rely on disability insurance and deal with constant migraines. "I'm only 36," Cahill says, "but I feel like I'm in my 70s in the morning."

    THE CARS BEHIND me in the warm-up lap weave like slalom skiers, trying to heat up their tires so they'll stick to the turns. I keep my eye on other lead car to my left and try to match his speed. When we get into the grandstand turn, he floors it.
    I try to keep up, but Cahill's waving the green start flag, and almost immediately I'm passed by two, three, four cars. In no time at all I'm at the back of the pack. There's only eight laps in a heat race, and when you fall behind it's nearly impossible to catch up.
One car overheats, another blows a tire. I manage to pass another, and end up finishing ninth out of a field of 12.
    "Nice clean racing," Cross tells me, "but you need to be more aggressive going into the turns, and much more aggressive coming out." Plug up the holes in the pack in front of you before someone else does. Hold your position, and make the others go around you. And don't be afraid to hit, or get hit back. The cars are built to take it.
    There's no Lady Byng trophy around here, that's for sure. As I wait for the main events, I walk over to the gallery to watch the heats for the demo cars, the stars of the show.
    Near as I can figure it, the fan appeal of hit-to-pass is schadenfreude without the guilt: you get to munch burgers watching one terrible car crash after another, but don't you don't have to help or worry about sleepless nights because the drivers (almost always) walk away from the scene. Whatever the reason, it draws a crowd. Sometimes there's as few as 500 people in the audience for Western Speedway's regular stock car nights; hit-to-pass routinely does four or five times that number.
    A Pontiac goes into a dusty double rollover on the berm at the back of turn three, and promoter Matt Sahlstrom runs out to the wreck — followed by an ambulance with its siren blaring — and interviews the dazed driver with a radio microphone, right on the spot. Another two cars pile into the grandstand wall; one ends up right on top of the other and has to be pulled off by a tow truck.
    "These guys are athletes, no matter what people say," Barry Goodwin, a track photographer, tells me. "You've got to be able to take the pounding."
    In that sense demo drivers are a lot like pro wrestlers, something they play up by creating larger-than-life characters for themselves. The good guy among them is "Smokin'" Joe Liberatore, who got his nickname because he used to light off smoke bombs when his orange '74 Monte Carlo was introduced at the "prettiest car" contest at the start of the evening. "It's not about just being a good driver, it's about putting on a good show," admits Liberatore, although he was skilled enough to win a demo championship in 1996. "Even if you're smashed up and really upset, you've got to be able to say hi to people and be willing to give something to the fans."
    Liberatore, who used to drive a bus full of handicapped kids for Queen Alexandra School, does a lot of charity work and fundraising by touring around with his car. In return, he's got 15 corporate sponsors, including 100.3 "The Q" FM and a sushi hut ("I go to all-you-can-eat Saturdays to build up that left-side weight," Joe chuckles). He needs the money. There are three guys in his crew, and it takes a couple of hundred dollars and 20 hours of work after each race, repairing his car.
    The ones who wear the black hats on demo nights, Liberatore's sworn enemies, are (I kid you not) the Hansen brothers, Marty "McFly" and Keith "Dr. Death" Hansen. Like their hockey-thug namesakes from the movie Slap Shot, they like to win — but almost as much, they like to hit.
    "You're always trying to chase down that next guy," says Marty, who races a '69 Grand Prix and works as a salesman for a stationery company. "Some guys you like more than others. Some guys you just try to spin 'em out and let 'em keep going, other guys you try to take 'em out for the night and bounce them down in points. That's the name of the game: try to break the other guy before he breaks you."
    The Hansens break lots of other guys, and nearly every time they pull into the pit someone has to fire up a welding torch or hoist a logging peavey (an instrument that looks like a giant can opener) to tear off their mangled quarterpanels so they can keep driving. Marty's also done plenty of damage to himself--he's dislocated his knee, busted an ankle, a shoulder, all the fingers in one hand, and his toes. "Nothing's ever made me not want to come back, though," he says. "It's part of the game. With the adrenalin, you don't feel nothin' — you feel it the next day."
    Whenever a car is knocked out of a race, drivers say it's been "killed". But car accidents really kill hundreds of people in British Columbia every year, and injure thousands more; it seems insane that anyone would go into an arena to intentionally smash into someone else. But I'm beginning to realize that's the dark thrill of driving hit-to-pass, and one that goes beyond victory, or speed. Every time you walk away, it's as if you've cheated death.

    GERRY LaBELLE WAS right: the waiting is the hardest part. I keep drumming the steering wheel as I'm sitting in a line of claimers, waiting for the 30-lap main event. Out on the straightaway the figure-8ers are squealing in loops around giant truck tires, bashing their little Hondas and Datsuns into each other like meth-crazed pizza drivers in a Domino's parking lot.
    The moon rises over the arbutus trees. I see a flickering in the stands as someone lights a cigarette, calmly regarding the mayhem. It's a strange sensation, knowing that somebody out there might be quietly hoping that you're going to eat a piece of the wall.
    We're on. Twenty-one claimers rumble out to the home stretch. The announcer calls out each of our names to the crowd, but I can't hear a thing. Then we follow the shiny new pace car around the track once, twice. The pace car peels off. We gun to racing speed, bumper to bumper, and Cahill waves the green flag.
    Although there are countless books on the psychology of winning tennis or the inner game of golf, there are precious few about driving race cars, and it's not hard to understand why. Battling your way through the chaos of a claimer race is like flying a fighter plane in a dogfight, or swimming in a feeding frenzy of sharks. You don't worry much about "finding the flow" or being "in the zone" when you're trying to keep from getting killed.
    As the man said, there's a time to lay back, and a time to be aggressive. I hold the lead out of the start this time, and going into one turn I get banged again and again by cars trying to force their way up front. Two turns later, I fishtail and slam my back end into someone taking the outside. Fighting with another car to make a turn on the inside, I cut it too short, run across the grass, crash back onto the asphalt, and sock him a good one, right in the chops.
    There are crackups and blown engines all over the track. While the caution lights flash, I lose my position in line and fall behind. Then the race picks up again, the Nova takes out the Camaro, and I overdrive the turn and nearly lose it into the grandstand wall--but when I ease up the gas like John told me, the car decelerates quickly and I shudder to a stop on the warning track, a few feet short of becoming a dummy in a crash test.
    I back out, throw the Granada into first again, and rejoin the race. It isn't pretty, but somehow I survive. Out of 21 cars, only 14 finish. I come in 10th.
    I pull into the pits, and see Cross grinning at me. "Well, did you have fun?"
    "John," I tell him, "I think I finally understand."
    I don't know whether I'll race again; I don't want to push my luck. But right now, I'm juiced. The back of my shirt is drenched with sweat, and as I walk around, I realize that all my senses are wired. I'm alive.
    John and I get a cup of coffee from the concession stand, and I swear I can taste the roasted oils of every single blessed coffee bean. The klieg lights illuminating the track are as bright as flaring magnesium. And when my girlfriend comes over and hugs me, I feel her warmth through my fire suit, and the back of her neck is as soft as velvet. I won't be able to fall asleep for hours.


Monday, August 29, 2022

The Flying Firemen

On Tuesday, August 30, 2022 at 11 am, the City of Langford will inaugurate the new Flying Firemen Park, at 1851 Bear Mountain Parkway. A version of my July 2008 article below will appear on a plaque in the park. You can read more about the park here.

There were few clear trails on the rocky southwest face of Langford’s Skirt Mountain. Craig Davidson and his sister Bonnie Stacey had to claw through alder and thick brush on the slope. It was difficult work. Especially because they were looking for the place where, 40 years earlier, their father had died.

Their dad, Alex Davidson, was a pilot. During World War II he tested Hurricanes and Spitfires, and trained Czechs to fight with the Royal Air Force in the Battle of Britain. He went to university after the war and had a family, then ended up in Victoria, running training flights in old Harvards and test-piloting planes for Fairey Aviation, the company that converted the giant Martin Mars flying boats into waterbombers.

The sciences of forest management and fire control weren't as developed back then, and the need for fire-fighting aircraft was huge. But the Martin Mars planes belonged to the logging companies, and the B.C. Forest Service didn’t have waterbombers of its own, so in 1965 Davidson started his own outfit – The Flying Firemen – using two converted war-era PBY-5A Cansos, based at the Pat Bay airport.

The Flying Firemen were kept very busy. In 1966, Davidson bought a third Canso and recruited Robert “Paddy” Moore (photo far right), a fellow WWII ace and Fairey test pilot based in Nova Scotia, to join the company the following year. It was smart planning. In the summer of 1967 a heat wave swept across British Columbia, and fires broke out everywhere. On Sunday, July 16, at about 4:30 p.m., Davidson got an urgent call. A blaze had erupted on Skirt Mountain, near Goldstream park.

Davidson and Moore skimmed their #2 Canso along Saanich Inlet, scooping up more than 1000 gallons of water and dumping it on the flames. A crowd gathered along the Trans-Canada Highway to watch as the pilots roared back and forth between the inlet and the fire, for more than two hours. And then, on a low pass, the left wingtip struck a tree, and shattered. The crowd gasped as the plane smashed into the mountainside and exploded, killing the pilots instantly.

The tragedy was front-page news for weeks. Transport Canada determined that the probable cause was “misjudgement of altitude”, but could not say who was flying at the time. (Photos from the report are above.) Papers across the country reprinted the photograph below, of a rescue worker looking at the charred airframe.

It was probably the most shocking postwar plane crash in Greater Victoria’s history. And yet, 40 years later, it seemed to have been publicly forgotten. (I note that it didn't even qualify for the "This Day in History" feature in the Times Colonist.) I wondered: Was there any trace of it left? So last summer, as the anniversary of the accident approached, I contacted Alex Davidson’s children, Craig and Bonnie, and we went to see what remained.

Les Bjola, one of the developers of the Bear Mountain golf resort atop the peak, told me he’d seen the wreck. Even with his directions, we spent three hours combing the craggy, overgrown slope, until Craig called out, “It’s here! There’s debris all over the hill!”

A landing-gear strut lay tangled in the bush. One of the rusted engines sat in a clearing; someone had tried to remove it, even though tampering with an old plane wreck is prohibited by the province's Heritage Conservation Act. Bonnie and I found Craig standing beside a chunk of the fuselage. He was quiet.

Craig was only 16 when his father died. He was in a car near Calgary, when he heard on the radio that a waterbomber had crashed in Victoria. “I hoped it wasn’t him, but I had a feeling it was. I knew all the guys; it was my summer job, helping the mechanics, gassing the planes up, polishing windshields. So I knew it was bad news.”

His dad’s partner kept the business going, and Craig worked for the Flying Firemen the next year. But on August 8, 1968, another one of their Cansos crashed in the Sooke Hills near Jarvis Lake, killing pilot Tommy Swanson and engineer Tom Worley. “When we lost the next plane, I’d had enough.” Craig became a commercial fisherman.

His father’s vision survived, though. In 1969, a former Alaskan named R.L. “Bud” Rude bought The Flying Firemen; he got in trouble with the tax department, and sold the company to Alex Wood, who grew it into the largest amphibious waterbombing outfit in the world. (The company ceased business in 1996, a victim of competition from federally-subsidized CL 215 waterbombers built by Quebec-based Canadair.) Cansos are still in use today, and you can actually fly in one at a warplane heritage museum in Ontario.

There’s still no memorial for the Flying Firemen. Development plans for Bear Mountain do include streets named Alexander Davidson Crescent and Paddy Moore Place, high atop the peak where the pilots died. But perhaps the best tribute to who they were rests in the thoughts of their families.

Paddy Moore’s widow Kathleen lives near Beacon Hill Park. She told me they met when they were teenagers in northern Ireland, and he was a trainee pilot; her father often shouted when Paddy flew low over their house, trying to impress her. He later won a Distinguished Service Cross for “gallantry, skill and devotion” while fighting in the Pacific.

They had only been in B.C. for two weeks when Paddy died. Sidney, where they lived, was just a village then. “I could write a book about the kindness of the people of Sidney,” she said. Her neighbours brought her cakes and the mail, and the local tailor fitted her three sons with suits for the funeral. Test pilots came from as far away as England and Africa for the service. “A bond was formed between those men,” she explained.

What they likely shared was the joy of flying, the thrill of pushing an aircraft's limits – and the knowledge of their own fragility.

“I felt sad when I saw the wreckage,” Alex Davidson’s daughter Bonnie told me. “My dad was 43. I’m nearly 60, and my children are in their 30s, nearly the age he was when he died. I thought of how much life they have left, and it was sad. He never saw his kids grow into adults, or his grandchildren.”

UPDATE (March 16, 2009): As of today, the Skirt Mountain crash site is now included in the B.C. Archeology Branch’s database of protected heritage sites.

UPDATE (November 19, 2009): Elwood White, author of Wings Across The Water: Victoria’s Aviation Heritage, is researching a book about The Flying Firemen. Last month, he attended a reunion in Sidney of the former pilots and crew members – who also reminisce about the company in an online forum.

UPDATE (July 16, 2017): Today is the 50th anniversary of this historic tragedy. Recently I was told by someone living in the area that visitors have been removing pieces of the wreck, so I have removed any references to its exact location.